Results tagged “sullivanstreetbakery”

Pizza Maker Strikes Back at <em>Times</em>, Toppings, Himself

Jim Lahey— the effervescent, no-knead dough guru and chef/owner of Sullivan Street Bakery and pizza joint Co.— has some advice for Frank Bruni following the single star Times review of Co. earlier this week. "If you want your cheese and sauce, you can get it [at Ray's]," he told the Observer’s Daily Transom. "They'll actually put extra shit on for ya!" Lahey’s working pizza philosophy at Co. (megawatt chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is an investor) adheres to a principle that pizza should not be laden with toppings and it is best cooked in a 900 degree oven. “The driving force was to change this genre of food-making so it's not falling into the same stupid cliches,” Lahey told the Observer, “like, the thick crust on the edge and lots of tomato sauce and cheese.” Lahey conspicuously sports a “Consume Less” t-shirt on the Sullivan Street website; Bruni’s admonishment that Lahey “needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little more” seems to have specifically irked the chef. The Observer article, with more expletives, is here. Expect a Diner’s Journal rebuttal to Lahey’s rebuttal, which veers sharply into self-deprecating territory, sometime today. (photo courtesy Adam Kuban/Slice)

Note From Nestor, by Frankenstein.

When a restaurant like Frankies 457 in Carroll Gardens decides to open another outpost, it's like bringing the world its younger, addictive, potentially more endearing younger brother. Welcome Frankies 17. A 26-seat rustic sliver at 17 Clinton Street, the new Frankies-- the little Frankies--boasts an identical menu cooked up by the Franks: Frank Castronovo (formerly of Bouley and Bocuse) and Frank Falcinelli (formerly of Moomba).

A single lampost illuminates the sidewalk outside of the recently opened currently offers five white wines including a smattering of South African to German to Spanish, and a dozen reds, dominated by Italian and Spanish wines, but offering tastes of a spicy Chilean Carmenere and a selection of California Pinot Noirs all in either carafes or bottles. A reasonable selection of bottled beers is also on stock, though corked bottles of wine behind the counter hint that the well-studied selection is the optimal choice.

Temptations for culinary connoisseurs abound across the five boroughs, from Zabar's to Murray's Cheese Shop to the Sullivan Street Bakery. But, there is something to be said for the gourmand that wants to reflect their fashion sense along with their food sensibility. For this unique creature, for whom Cynthia Rowley is as important as Nebbiola d'Alba, Gothamist suggests a trip to one of the city's outposts of Fishs Eddy.

Gothamist, like many other New Yorkers, will be strategically avoiding the various lifestyle headaches that promise to accompany the Grand Old Party to our beloved city. For those natives fleeing the island as the Republicans descend, we'll take a page from the administration's book and offer our suggestions for a Gothamist Food "Go Bag" stocked with some of our favorite hometown provisions:

Gothamist headed to the Blue Goose Cafe on Second Avenue and 6th Street for an afternoon snack with T, who, not so coincidentally, was our companion when we frequented owners Jack and Grace Lamb's other East Village venture, the wonderful Jewel Bako. With pastries from Payard, Ceci Cela, and Sullivan Street Bakery, the Blue Goose is as close to a sure thing a simple cafe can be, but the Lambs have added their elegant touch.

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