In the restaurant world, terminology like "organic," "local," and "seasonal" have become so commonplace they can be easy to ignore. But, when Market Table – which offers all three of these – opened on Carmine Street (at Bedford) in the West Village last September, they highlighted a new buzzword: market. With an emphasis on bringing food from the market directly to the table, the restaurant simultaneously offers a capacious (and beautiful) dining room headed by chef Mikey Price (formerly of Mermaid Inn), which is adjacent to a general-store like grocery stocked with olive oils, fresh breads, assorted condiments, dried goods, and a deli case full of gravlax, fresh herbs, cheeses, and sauces and stocks. Price is partner to Chef Joey Campanaro and Gabriel Stulman of the nearby Little Owl, of which we're also big fans.
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This week in the Times, Bruni goes to Harry Cipriani in the Sherry-Netherland Hotel, awards the restaurant no stars. Finds “service so confused and food so undistinguished it wouldn’t pass muster at half the cost.” Says prices at the restaurant ridiculous. The restaurant was last reviewed in 1991, when Bryan Miller gave it two stars. The one positive? “The people-watching is nonpareil." Peter Meehan visits Fifth Avenue in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, for tacos. Likes Epocas...
Market Table -- Mike Price, formerly of the Mermaid Inn has partnered with the Little Owl's Joey Campanaro and Gabriel Stulman, moved into the former Shopsins space and created a market/restaurant where, among other things, they'll be selling the kick-ass pork chops served at the Little Owl so you can attempt to re-create them at home. The market portion is in the soft-opening stage, and the restaurant is due to open the week of September 11. 54 Carmine at Bedford Street. (212) 255-2100.
">Bruni two-stars Little Owl, says “It has an irresistible earnestness and exuberance that explain its instant, well-deserved popularity.” Also, he really likes the pork chop. Chef Joey Campanero, formerly executive chef at The Harrison and Pace, gets kudos for “disciplined cooking,” as does manager and co-owner Gabriel Stulman, for “real hospitality.”
Weekend mornings are oft synonymous with brunch, the ever-transcendent meal that allows you both sweet and savory. On the Northeast corner of Grove & Bedford Streets in the West Village, chef Joey Campanaro and business partner Gabriel Stulman invite you to their two-weeks-old brunch menu inside the wainscotted, 28-seat, gold-tin ceiling nook, Little Owl. Though Gothamist first visited for dinner on opening night, we decided to go back to see if brunch was up to par. Paper menus stamped with a stencil of an owl offer a list of simple, but elegant entrees which arrive a la carte. Blueberry corn pancakes ($7) are delicately thin, stacked 4-high and dusted with powdered sugar. Buttery sweet, wild blueberries and fresh corn stud throughout; warm vanilla-infused corn syrup accompanies. The asparagus reuellta ($8) marries fresh asparagus, the mandatory protein of early-morning eggs, and jamon serrano, neatly centered on a large white plate, while a mushroom omelette ($11) arrives with parmesan and seasonal summer truffles. Though the accoutrements of the diner-like hungryman's brunch are absent from Campanaro's menu (formerly of the Harrison, the Red Cat) you can order applewood smoked bacon, asparagus home fries, and fruit salad on the side. A nouveau American style reverberates through seasonal and farm-fresh ingredients which Campanaro uses both simply and well. Campanaro mans the kitchen while Stulman keeps customers happy with dual roles as waiter and conversationalist, boldly recommending that next time, we should really come back for dinner.



